South Sudan is the newest country in the
world, and will be 2 years old in a couple of weeks. As everyone knows South
Sudan came into existence after a referendum in the south of “old” Sudan and a
huge majority voted for independence from the north, which is still called
Sudan. There’s a long history of violent civil and intertribal war which
continues sporadically even now, but in parts of South Sudan and Sudan itself
which are quite remote from Aweil. However there is a legacy of this prolonged
violence that lingers even here, firstly
I am told by a general state of post traumatic stress, a wariness and hesitancy
about engagement with all but your own. This explanation certainly made sense
to me, because it is hard to get a smile from anyone, life seems to be pursued
with a grim and self contained
determination, and joy seems in short supply, even among children. Whereas a
walk from the hospital in Ethiopia inevitably attracted throngs of kids who
would call out and come running, here they watch silently as you pass. In
Ethiopia it was possible to engage with patients and their carers but here that
seems less common. – we do good, I am sure they know it and appreciate it but
there is little in the way of feedback. This is my impression after only a
week, so it may change as I get to know and understand their ways better, and
perhaps, they, mine.
A further legacy of the wars is a nighttime
curfew in the town from 11pm to 7am. There is an MSF rule that after 7pm we are
not allowed out of the compound except for work related activity, and we area
not to walk anywhere but use a car and driver. If we need to go to the hospital
during curfew the ambulance has to activate the flashing light.
A final reminder that security remains a
major issue in the country is the prohibition on Photography, and is the one
that affects and annoys me most. How strictly such a requirement is enforced I
couldn’t say, but I took a few pictures in Juba, and when I arrived here , and
nobody seemed to object. However at my first briefing in Aweil it was made very
clear that I am not here as a Tourist but as a representative of MSF, and
taking photos in the streets and of people and scenes generally, let alone of
public buildings or military or policing subjects, was simply forbidden. There
were one or two photos on file in the Office Computer that I could use, and of
course I could take photos within the compound or, with the permission of the
subjects, of work related activity, but my habit of always having the camera in
one pocket has had to be scrapped. I will post what photos I can but sadly many
scenes, colors faces and events that I witness will have to be recorded in my
head and nowhere else.
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