As we drew closer I was excited by the sight of what I thought were masts of two other yachts but it turned out they were tall pale trunks of skinny trees at a clearing behind the village. I saw a fisherman in a little speedboat moving along the edge of the reef, and closer in still a man fishing from a more traditional outrigger craft. The sea grew quieter and quieter and the wind reduced to 18 then 15 knots, and suddenly the depth sounder started working - it could reach the sea floor for the first time in weeks. I went forward and prepared the anchor, then slowly approached the reef in front of the town till I was in 4 meters - I then went out and round a bit looking at the bottom and the line of the reef and eventually, 156 meters from the reef according to the GPS , finally and at long bloody last, dropped the anchor. It struck immediately, and I lowered the Anchor Buddy down the anchor chain and sat at the bow waiting and watching but mostly just feeling incredible and utter and completely wonderful relief!
There was a very tiny swell and a warm gusty breeze coming over the saddle behind the village in front of me. Sapphire was quiet and calm at last. The sky was still overcast but lightly and the sun has since made several bright appearances, illuminating and giving rich colour to the steep bush and palm covered hills round the bay. The village itself is barely visible but is tiny - a handful of buildings, most only partly visible through trees - the largest with a red roof a Temple according to Charlies Charts - a couple of 4WD vehicles moving past, a man with a bucket picking his way along the reef, wisps of smoke rising from homes hidden by palms - I remembered, seeing it that I had smelled this smoke yesterday miles out at sea - faint hints suddenly in the lulls. But it was all quiet, I heard no sound other than waves on the reef .
So I just sat there and looked at everything on shore, every little beautiful wonderful thing.
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